Learn how to properly plant your tree, and what it will require for TLC once it is established.
Trees absorb carbon dioxide produced from motor vehicles and, in return, produce oxygen, helping to reduce both the greenhouse effect and global warming. They provide food and cover for wildlife, which, for me, is a prime consideration in my choice of which trees to plant. Trees, and the shade they produce, help to keep my home and yard cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter when they act as windbreaks. By providing beauty and character, landscaping with trees also enhances the value of our property.
If you would like to add trees, or even a single tree, to your landscape, be sure to do your homework. There are trees to suit every situation and, by assessing your needs realistically, you can be sure that the tree you invest your money in will return that investment a thousand times over.
First look at the physical aspect of where you want to plant. Choose a tree that, when mature, will be a suitable size for your site. Also, assess things like available sunlight, wind, drainage and soil pH. (You did do a soil test, right?) Do you want an evergreen or a deciduous tree? Do you want spring or summer flowers? Ornamental bark? Berries? Good fall color? Dense shade or filtered shade? A column shape, weeping or rounded form? Small (10-25 ft), medium(25-40 ft.), or large (over 40 ft.)?
There are many trees that offer many combinations of the above so it will be helpful to know what you want before shopping. An experienced nurseryman or landscape/garden designer will be able to help you narrow your choices down, and ultimately buy a tree that is healthy and suited to your needs. And remember, bigger is not always better. The bigger the tree, the longer it will take to become established and put on growth. You may be better off with something smaller that will grow quickly and reach the same height as a larger tree might in the same amount of growing time.
The best time to plant your new tree is during the dormant season - early spring before bud break or in the fall after leaf drop. But trees that have been properly cared for in the nursery or garden center can be planted any time during the growing season. Just know that your tree is going to be more stressed if your plant it in July and you’ll probably have to do some additional watering as well.
And by all means, do your new tree a huge favor by planting it correctly. Many people believe that you need to dig a deep hole when planting a tree. The exact opposite is true. Your hole needs to be much wider than deep by at least three to five times the diameter of the root ball. It needs to be only as deep as the root ball or just 1-2 inches less. It is essential that the root flare (area where the trunk ends and the roots begin) be at or slightly above the existing soil line. Make sure the root flare is visible. The bottom of the hole should be firm so that the tree doesn’t sink after planting.
Remove or cut away twine, burlap (especially the plastic type) and wire baskets. Loosen the roots to enhance their growth and prevent girdling. Finer root systems can be loosened with your hands. Heavier roots may need to be cut with pruning shears. Next position the tree in the hole, making sure that it is straight, and spread out the roots. Backfill the hole with the soil you took out. You don’t need to put in any additives or amendments. Firm the soil gently. Water the tree deeply to begin with, then once a week if it hasn’t rained and more if it’s hot. A good way to judge is when the soil below the mulch is dry, then it’s time to water.
Your final step is to mulch. Add two to four inches around the base of the tree, but not against the trunk. Make a doughnut, not a mound. Mounding mulch around the trunk and covering the root flare inhibits gas exchange and can cause disease and decay of the living bark at the base of the tree. This is one of the biggest mistakes I see in newly planted trees. And I see it everywhere, especially in parking lots around stores and malls. Because of the way these public trees are mulched, many people think that that is how it should be done.
One of the most important factors in arboreal physical fitness is proper pruning to remove dead or damaged branches that can contribute to disease. Pruning also offers the opportunity to shape trees, promote orderly growth and permit adequate flow of air and sunlight through the branches.
The National Arbor Day Association recommends whenever possible encouraging side branches that form angles a third off the vertical central trunk at the 10 or 2 o'clock position. Most species of trees should have a single trunk with side branches at least a third smaller than its diameter. Ideally, pruning should be done in the fall and winter.
If it is necessary to remove a main branch, the association recommends cutting it back to where it is attached to another large branch or the trunk. Do not truncate or leave a stub. Illustrated information on the proper pruning method is available on the association's web site.
Now is also the time to trim suckers from tree bases and stems, Buchanan said, in addition to removing low-hanging branches from the trunk. Such trimming should not exceed a third of the tree's total height.
a single dead branch on a pear, crabapple, mountain ash and hawthorn tree could be a sign of highly contagious and destructive fire blight. Infected branches must be carefully pruned below the evidence of blight, he said, with the branches disposed of properly and shears disinfected after each cut to avoid spreading the disease.
For larger trees seek pruning advice from a professional arborist. In selecting one, property owners should be sure he or she is certified by the International Society for Arboriculture, the largest and most-recognized organization of its kind.
potential customers also should consider how long the company has been in business, ask for and research references, and look for well-maintained vehicles bearing the company's name on the side.
And never, ever under any circumstances pay for work in advance.
Along with proper pruning, Knotts said, adequate watering is essential. He recommends deep-watering trees at least once a week during the growing season and monthly during the winter. To determine the need, Knotts said, take a handful of soil from beneath the tree. If it crumbles, it's too dry. If it wrings water, it's too wet. If it holds together, it's just right.
A good way of watering is to place a hose at a slow trickle at the base of a tree and allow it to thoroughly infiltrate the soil in the surrounding drip line extending to the outer the edge of the canopy. Leave the hose there for two to three hours, he said, or until the water begins to run off.
Mulching beneath trees greatly helps retain moisture, except for stone that can actually cause damage because of the heat it retains and reflects. However, the mulch should be pulled away from the trunk to prevent the potential for disease.
Off-color trees may need a feeding of iron or nitrogen in mid to late June, according to Buchanan. He suggested that a professional make that assessment.
Spraying is a last resort, usually not necessary for healthier trees better capable of withstanding assaults by pests. The problem with pesticides is unless they're appropriate and properly applied, they also kill beneficial insects along with the undesirable.
Some of the best sources of information about trees and their care are the fact sheets available from Colorado State Cooperative Extension.
Dwayne Haskell owns and operates Mistkits.com where complete misting kits, individual components, and advice can be found. After building his own misting system for his nursery, he realized he could design and build systems for small nurseries or home gardeners who are interested in starting their own plants from cuttings.
He has written an E-book titled Build an Arbor in Just One Weekend, and another on gardening, landscaping and plant propagation tips. He also enjoys teaching others how to grow their own landscape plants and owns and moderates the Mistkits blog, where you can find more articles, polls, and quizzes on landscape and gardening related topics. Be sure to grab your own copy of an E-book when you visit!